If you want to walk through old Japanese streets from the samurai era and explore historic mountain trails, Kiso Valley in Nagano Prefecture is the perfect destination for you.
Kiso Valley offers everything an international traveller could want: easy access from Tokyo and Kyoto, authentic Edo-period atmosphere, beginner-friendly hiking trails, and landscapes that haven't changed in centuries. Whether you have two days or a week, this region rewards slow travel and mindful exploration.
Four Reasons Why Kiso Valley is Perfect for Foreign Visitors:
Easy access from Tokyo and Kyoto
Well-Preserved Post Towns
Fully Covered by JR Pass
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This article will tell you about the attractions of Kiso Valley and introduce the means of access and the major tourist attractions at each station.
Planning Your Kiso Valley Trip
Here are some tips for planning your trip to Kiso Valley.
Best Time to Visit Kiso Valley
Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms and fresh greenery
Summer (June-October): forest bathing, waterfalls, hiking
Autumn (November-December): Autumn foliage
Winter (December-February): snowy scenery, hot springs
While Kiso Valley is enjoyable year-round, I particularly recommend spring (late April to May) and autumn (mid-November to early December).
Spring (late April to May) is also an excellent choice. Cherry blossoms and new greenery are beautiful, and it's less crowded than autumn. Summer is ideal for forest bathing, and waterfalls are at their most impressive. Winter offers magical snowy landscapes, though some hiking trails close and bus services are reduced.
How Long to Stay in Kiso Valley
Some visitors spend a week or even two weeks in the area. However, since hiking the Nakasendo Trail is an essential part of the Kiso Valley experience, I recommend at least 2 nights and 3 days.
Getting to and Around Kiso Valley
Here are some tips on how to get to and around Kiso Valley in Nagano.
From Tokyo: Two Routes to Choose From
There are two routes from Tokyo to Kiso Valley. Both take roughly the same time (about 3 hours 20 minutes), but the Shinjuku route via Limited Express Azusa is more economical.
Route 1: Via Shinjuku (Recommended for Budget)
Take the Limited Express Azusa from Shinjuku Station to Shiojiri Station (about 2 hours 30 minutes), then transfer to a local train or Limited Express Shinano to Kiso-Fukushima Station (about 35 minutes). Only one transfer required, and the entire journey is covered by the JR Pass.
Route 2: Via Nagoya (Good for Shinkansen Fans)
Take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagoya Station (about 1 hour 35 minutes), then transfer to the Limited Express Shinano to Kiso-Fukushima Station (about 1 hour 20 minutes). This route is recommended if you want to ride the bullet train or are coming from the Kansai region via Nagoya.
Both routes are convenient, and your choice depends on personal preference. The Shinjuku route is slightly better if Narai-juku is your main destination, whilst the Nagoya route is marginally more convenient for Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku.
Moving Between Stations in Kiso Valley
Within Kiso Valley, you have two train options. Since the Limited Express Shinano doesn't stop at all stations, you'll use a combination of these two services.
For longer distances, use the Limited Express Shinano; for shorter trips, use local trains. For example, a local train is sufficient for the 20-minute journey from Kiso-Fukushima to Narai, but the Limited Express Shinano is more comfortable for the hour-long trip from Kiso-Fukushima to Nakatsugawa.
Local Trains (普通列車, Futsu Ressha)
Frequency: About once per hour
Seating: Non-reserved (first-come, first-served)
Travel time: About 10 minutes between stations
Covered by JR Pass: Yes
See the article below for details on how to ride local trains in Kiso Valley:
Limited Express Shinano (特急しなの)
Fare: ¥1,000-2,000 (including express surcharge)
Faster service with reserved seating
Stops only at major stations
Covered by JR Pass: Yes (seat reservations required)
Please refer to the article below for information on how to ride the "Limited Express Shinano" train.
Critical Points to Remember:
IC cards (Suica/PASMO) don't work at most stations in Kiso Valley
Have cash ready
Take a numbered ticket (整理券) on one-man operated trains
Hiking the Nakasendo Trail
If you visit Kiso Valley, I strongly recommend experiencing at least a short section of the Nakasendo Trail hiking route.
What is the Nakasendo?
During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the Nakasendo (中山道, literally "Central Mountain Route") was one of five major highways connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Unlike the coastal Tokaido route, the Nakasendo passed through mountainous terrain. Though longer, it was safer from tsunamis and storms.
Today, you can still walk sections of the original cobblestone path through beautifully preserved post towns.
Understanding Post Towns: In feudal Japan, people could only travel on foot, making the 500km journey from Tokyo to Kyoto a multi-day endeavour. "Post towns" (宿場町, shukuba-machi) were rest stations established every few kilometres where travellers could find food, accommodation, and fresh horses. Think of them as motorway service stations from the samurai era.
Nakasendo trail Hiking Routes (Major Hiking Routes)
The Nakasendo has at least ten different hiking routes. This article introduces three popular routes.
Magome juku to Tsumago juku Route (Most Popular)
The total distance is 8 km and the course takes 3 hours.
This is the most famous and popular route along the Nakasendo. Well-maintained, with excellent signage, luggage forwarding services, and traditional tea houses, it's the perfect introduction to Nakasendo hiking.
Nojiri to Suhara Route
This is a 7 km course that takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes.
I recently walked this route myself. It's entirely paved, so you won't be trekking through mountain forests. However, it's an exceptionally quiet route with rural charm. You'll walk through rice paddies and along the Kiso River, enjoying authentic Japanese countryside scenery.
Parts of the route follow the JR railway line, and you'll occasionally see local trains passing by. You can observe local farmers at work and traditional farmhouses.
Kiso-Fukushima's Shiroyama Nature Trail (Not Nakasendo)
The course is 3.6 km long and takes 2 hours. Whilst not part of the Nakasendo, I highly recommend the Shiroyama Nature Trail in Kiso-Fukushima. This circular route features observation points, 300-year-old Japanese cypress forests, and the beautiful Gongen Waterfall. It's perfect for testing your fitness before attempting longer Nakasendo hikes.
You'll be walking through mountain forests, so proper footwear (trainers or hiking boots) is essential.
See the article below for details:
Exploring Kiso Valley by Station
This section is the heart of the article. I'll introduce what you can do at each station along the JR Chuo Line through Kiso Valley.
Shiojiri Station - Northern Gateway
Limited Express "Azusa" and "Shinano" stop here
Border station between JR East and JR Central
Shiojiri Station is the boundary between JR East and JR Central, and serves as the northern gateway to Kiso Valley. It's also a transfer point for Matsumoto and Nagano. Travellers coming from Tokyo on the Limited Express Azusa transfer here to local trains or the Limited Express Shinano heading into Kiso Valley.
Narai Station - Edo period, 1 minute walk from the station.
Limited Express trains don't stop here (must use local trains)
Unmanned station
IC cards (Suica, etc.) not accepted
The post town is immediately outside the station building
Main attraction: Narai-juku - 1-minute walk
Narai-Juku
Once known as "Narai of a Thousand Houses" (奈良井千軒), this is the longest post town on the Nakasendo, stretching approximately 1km with continuous Edo-period streetscapes.
The Torii Pass hiking route (6km, 3-3.5 hours) crosses the Nakasendo's highest point (1,197m) before descending to Yabuhara. This is a challenging route for experienced hikers.
Travel time:
From Kiso-Fukushima: About 20 minutes by local train
From Shiojiri: About 20 minutes by local train
From Nagoya: About 1 hour 40 minutes (transfer at Kiso-Fukushima)
Yabuhara Station (Yabuhara) - Torii Pass Hiking
Unmanned station
IC cards not accepted
Only one-man operated trains stop here
Main attraction: Torii Pass hiking to Narai-juku
This hiking route crosses the Nakasendo's highest point (altitude 1,197m). You'll walk through primeval forests before descending to Narai-juku. It's challenging but offers tremendous satisfaction for experienced hikers.
Travel time:
From Kiso-Fukushima: 15 minutes by local train
From Narai: 5 minutes by local train
Kiso-Fukushima Station - The Heart of Kiso Valley
Limited Express "Shinano" stops here
Staffed station, but IC cards not accepted
Tourist information centre, convenience store, and restaurants near the station
Ideal base for exploring Kiso Valley and the Nakasendo Trail
Main attractions: Shiroyama Nature Trail (3.6km, 2 hours), Fukushima-juku, Fukushima Checkpoint
Kiso-Fukushima is literally the central hub of Kiso Valley. It's just 20 minutes by local train to Narai-juku to the north, and 25-40 minutes to the Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku area to the south. This central location makes it convenient to reach anywhere without changing accommodation daily. Moreover, Kiso-Fukushima itself is a compact, attractive tourist destination.
Crucially, all Limited Express Shinano trains (running between Nagoya and Nagano) stop at Kiso-Fukushima Station. This means minimal or no transfers whether you're coming from Tokyo, Nagoya, or Nagano.
Fukushima-juku
This was an important post town housing one of the Edo Period's four major checkpoints. Unlike touristy Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, this is a living post town where local residents actually live. The Uenodan district preserves Edo-period streets lined with traditional wooden architecture. The Fukushima Checkpoint (関所, sekisho) is a reconstructed Edo-period inspection post, displaying period travel permits (手形, tegata - the origin of modern passports).
Shiroyama Nature Trail
In my opinion, this hiking route is even better than the Nakasendo Trail.
Unlike the Nakasendo, this is a fantastic half-day hiking course (3.6km, about 2 hours). You'll get spectacular views of Fukushima-juku and the entire Kiso Valley, with the beautiful Gongen Waterfall along the route. It's perfect as a warm-up before tackling longer hikes like the Magome Pass.
Travel time:
From Nagoya: 1 hour 20 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
From Nagano: 1 hour 30 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
Agematsu Station - Akasawa Forest and Nezame-no-Toko
Limited Express "Shinano" stops here
Staffed station
IC cards not accepted
Main attractions: Akasawa Natural Recreation Forest and Nezame-no-Toko
The Agematsu Station area is for nature lovers. You can experience the natural splendour of Kiso Valley through two main attractions: beautiful gorges and ancient forests.
Akazawa Natural Recreation Forest
Approximately 30 minutes by bus. One of Japan's three most beautiful forests, featuring ancient Japanese cypress (hinoki) trees over 300 years old. This is also the birthplace of the concept of "forest bathing" (森林浴, shinrin-yoku - walking in forests for health benefits). Seven well-maintained hiking courses cater to everyone from beginners to advanced hikers.
As a special experience, you can ride the forest railway (森林鉄道) that was once used to transport timber. This small trolley train covers 2.2km (about 20 minutes round trip), passing between 300-year-old giant trees.
Operating period: May to October only
Features: 300-year-old Japanese cypress forests
Buses: 2-3 buses per day
Nezame-no-Toko
A scenic spot along the Kiso River featuring giant rocks and rapids, associated with the Urashima Taro legend. This breathtakingly beautiful scenic area features massive white granite boulders carved by the Kiso River over tens of thousands of years, contrasted with the emerald-green pristine waters. It's like a natural Japanese garden created by nature itself.
Urashima Taro legend: Urashima Taro is one of Japan's most famous folk tales, similar to Rip Van Winkle. A fisherman rescues a turtle, is taken to an undersea palace, and when he returns discovers centuries have passed. According to local legend, this is where he awoke from his enchantment.
Travel time:
From Kiso-Fukushima: 7 minutes by local train
From Nagoya: 1 hour 30 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
Suhara & Nojiri Stations - Off the Beaten Path
Unmanned stations
IC cards not accepted
Only one-man operated trains stop here
Main attractions: Suhara-juku - 3-minute walk
Unlike the popular Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, these post towns remain uncommercialised, preserving their authentic character. Local residents go about their daily lives, rice paddies remain active, and you can see traditional water troughs (水舟, mizubune) still in use.
Suhara-juku (須原宿)
A small but charming post town. Wooden water troughs (水舟) line the highway, still used by locals to cool and wash vegetables today.
Teishoji Temple (定勝寺) is a National Important Cultural Property, with its mountain gate, main hall, and temple kitchen preserved from the Edo Period. Its quiet presence conveys the weight of history.
Nojiri-juku (野尻宿)
Characterised by a defensive road layout called "Nanamag ari" (七曲り, Seven Bends). The road was deliberately bent seven times to slow enemy invasion and obstruct their view - a clever defensive strategy.
The hike from Nojiri-juku to Suhara-juku (8km, 2.5-3 hours) is far quieter than the famous Magome Pass route, offering a more authentic Nakasendo experience. You'll walk through rice paddies and along the Kiso River, with local trains occasionally passing by.
Atera Valley (阿寺渓谷)
Kiso Valley's best-kept secret scenic spot. The water known as "Atera Blue" rivals Croatia's Plitvice Lakes or Italy's Blue Grotto in beauty, yet sees almost no foreign tourists.
This 15km gorge was carved by the Kiso River through white granite, creating incredibly transparent waters. You can see straight to the river bottom, and the water colour is most beautiful on clear days after good weather.
It's just a 20-minute walk from Nojiri Station, with hiking trails extending up to 6.3km one way (2-3 hours).
Nagiso Station (Nagiso Station) - Most Famous Post Towns
Some Limited Express trains stop here (many don't)
Staffed station
IC cards not accepted
Main attraction: Tsumago-juku - 7 minutes by bus
📍 JR Nagiso Station (Google Maps)
This is Kiso Valley's Most Popular Area.
The Nagiso Station area is the gateway to two of Japan's most famous and well-preserved post towns. Unlike other areas, here you can expect international tourists and well-developed tourism infrastructure.
Tsumago-juku (妻籠宿)
Tsumago-juku is a post town that has perfectly preserved its Edo-period appearance. Walking here feels like genuine time travel. From any angle, no modern elements enter your field of vision. Lattice windows, lanterns, cobblestone paths, the sound of water wheels - everything remains as it was in the Edo Period.
Many buildings still function as inns and private residences. It's not a museum created for tourists, but a town where people actually live.
Travel time:
From Kiso-Fukushima: 25 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
From Nakatsugawa: 20 minutes by local train
Nakatsugawa Station (Nakatsugawa) - Gateway to Magome-juku
All Limited Express "Shinano" trains stop here - a busy, well-used station
Staffed station; IC cards work if you're getting off here
Main attraction: Magome-juku - 25 minutes by bus
📍 JR Nakatsugawa Station (Google Maps)
Nakatsugawa Station is the southern gateway to Kiso Valley, located in Gifu Prefecture (on the border with Nagano Prefecture). It's the primary access point for Magome-juku.
All Limited Express Shinano trains stop here, providing direct access from Nagoya. The station has coin lockers, restaurants, and convenience stores, making it one of the best-equipped stations in Kiso Valley.
Most travellers use this station solely to access Magome-juku, then head to Nagiso Station via Tsumago-juku.
Magome-juku (馬籠宿)
Magome-juku is a unique hillside post town built on a steep mountain slope. As you climb the cobblestone slope, you can enjoy magnificent views of Kiso Valley.
Buses to Magome-juku run hourly from Nakatsugawa Station.
The hiking route from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku is approximately 8km, taking 2.5-3 hours. This is the most popular hiking route on the Nakasendo. It's well-maintained, safe for beginners, and luggage forwarding services are available.
Travel time:
From Nagoya: 50 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
From Kiso-Fukushima: 60 minutes by local train (40 minutes by Limited Express)
