How to Travel Kiso Valley by Train: Guide to Nakasendo Post Towns on JR Chuo Line
By Dynamic Japan Travel Editorial Team—Supervised by P-HAM Co., Ltd. (Licensed Travel Agency, Aichi No. 3-1590)
Contents
Traveling the Kiso Valley and Nakasendo by Train: A Local Line Guide to Post Towns
Once you arrive in the Kiso Valley, your journey continues aboard local trains on the JR Chuo Main Line, connecting the historic post towns along the way. Getting from Tokyo to the Kiso Valley and Nakasendo is covered in a separate article — this one focuses on how to get around within the Kiso Valley to visit the Nakasendo's post towns.
We'll cover everything you need for the actual trip: whether the JR Pass is valid, how to ride one-man (driver-only) trains, what to do at unstaffed stations where IC cards don't work, and how to reach each post town. You don't need a car — with local trains, you can freely explore Nojiri-juku, Suhara-juku, Narai-juku, Kiso-Fukushima, Tsumago-juku, and Magome-juku.
Here's a detailed look at what we'll cover.
How to ride one-man trains
Kiso Valley stations introduced in order from south to north
Attractions accessible from each station and how to get there
How to buy tickets at unstaffed stations
Mastering How to Ride One-Man Trains
Most local trains in the Kiso Valley are one-man (driver-only) trains — there's no conductor, just the driver. This is the system that confuses foreign travelers used to city trains the most. But once you understand it, it's simple.
Features of One-Man Trains
Operated by a single driver, with no conductor
You open the doors yourself by pressing a button
Take a numbered ticket when boarding
Pay by putting cash and your numbered ticket in the fare box when getting off
Credit cards and prepaid IC cards such as Suica cannot be used.
Boarding Steps
From here, we'll walk you through how to ride a one-man train, with photos.
Step 1: Wait at the rearmost door of the front car
On the platform, wait in front of the rearmost door of the train's leading car. You'll see a sign reading "ワンマン" (wanman, meaning "one-man operation") painted on the platform floor. Note that the doors do not open automatically when the train stops — press the black button beside the door, and it will open with a hiss of air.
(Photo of the "ワンマン" (one-man operation) sign painted on the platform)
Step 2: Take a numbered ticket
Near the boarding door, you'll find a small ticket dispenser. Take a small numbered slip (seiriken) from it.
(Photo of the numbered-ticket dispenser)
(Numbered ticket)
Getting off the train
Here's how to get off the train. Note that credit cards and IC cards can't be used — the fare must be paid in cash. You can, however, break a 1,000-yen note using the onboard change machine.
This guide covers getting off at an unstaffed station. At a staffed station, all the train's doors open, so you simply get off and hand your numbered ticket and cash to the station staff at the ticket gate.
Step 1: Move to the leading car as you approach your stop
On a one-man-operated train, you can only exit through the door beside the driver's seat in the leading car. Move to the leading car well before you reach your destination.
Step 2: Check the fare on the LED display at the front of the car
Above the driver's seat is an LED display showing your ticket number matched to the fare, e.g. "1 → 150 yen," "2 → 200 yen."
(Photo of the LED fare display)
Step 3: Put your ticket and cash into the fare box by the driver's seat, then exit
When you reach your stop, put your numbered ticket and cash into the fare box by the driver's seat. The change machine only accepts 1,000-yen bills. Once you've paid, you can get off the train.
(Fare box on a one-man, driver-only train)
Important notes:
Cash only — most of these trains don't accept credit cards or IC cards
It's a good idea to have 500-yen and 100-yen coins on hand
Practical tips for train travel
Here are some tips for getting around the Nakasendo and the Kiso Valley by train.
Make Kiso-Fukushima your base
If you're spending two or three days in the Kiso Valley, staying near Kiso-Fukushima Station is by far the most convenient option.
Plenty of accommodation options in the area
Easy day trips both north and south
Watch out: trains in the Kiso Valley run infrequently
Local trains in the Kiso Valley run only about once an hour. Check your route on Google Maps ahead of time and take a screenshot to keep handy.
If you miss a train, you may have to wait over an hour for the next one. But that's part of the charm of traveling through the Kiso Valley — use the wait to stroll around the station or relax at a local soba shop.
(Train timetable at Nagiso Station)
Most stations don't accept Suica
If you're touring the post towns along the Nakasendo or exploring the Kiso Valley, most stations don't accept IC cards like Suica. Credit card payment isn't available either.
Be sure to bring cash with you. It's also a good idea to purchase paper tickets in advance.
Making the most of the JR Pass
With a JR Pass, you can ride all local trains as well as the "Shinano" and "Azusa" limited express trains as much as you like. Note that it cannot be used on buses (such as the buses to Magome or Tsumago).
