Once you arrive in Kiso Valley (木曽谷, Kisodani), your journey continues on JR Chuo Line local trains to explore the historic post towns of the Nakasendo Trail (中山道, Nakasendo). While we cover how to reach Kiso Valley from Tokyo in another article, this guide focuses specifically on how to move around inside Kiso Valley and access the Nakasendo post towns.
This guide covers everything you need to know about traveling by train in Kiso Valley:
How to use JR Pass on local trains
How to ride one-man trains (ワンマン電車, wanman densha)
Which stations accept IC cards like Suica (and which don't)
How to access each post town from train stations
How to pay train fares at unmanned stations
[link id=train-to-kiso]
Understanding One-Man Trains in Rural Japan
Most local trains in Kiso Valley are one-man trains (ワンマン電車, wanman densha). This means there is only one staff member - the driver - operating the train. There are no conductors.
This system can be confusing for foreign travelers used to urban trains, but it's actually quite simple once you understand how it works.
What Makes One-Man Trains Different
Only the driver operates the train (no conductor)
You must press a button to open doors (doors don't open automatically)
You take a numbered ticket (整理券, seiriken) when boarding
You pay when getting off by putting cash and your ticket in the fare box
Credit cards and IC cards like Suica usually cannot be used
How to Board: Step-by-Step
Here is an explanation of how to ride a one-man train along with pictures.
Step 1: Wait at the Front Car's Rear Door
Wait on the platform where you see a "ワンマン" (one-man) sign on the ground. This indicates where the front car's rear door will stop. When the train arrives, the doors do NOT open automatically. You must press the button next to the door.
Step 2: Take a Numbered Ticket
As you board, you'll see a small machine near the entrance. Take a numbered paper ticket (整理券, seiriken) from this machine. This number is very important - it tells you how much to pay when you get off.
How to Get Off: Step-by-Step
The instructions below are for unmanned stations. At staffed stations, all doors open and you simply exit and give your ticket plus cash to the station staff at the ticket gate.
Step 1: Move to the Front Car
On one-man trains, you can only exit from the front door next to the driver's seat. When your destination is approaching, move to the front car early.
Step 2: Check the Fare on the LED Display
Above the driver's seat, there's an LED display board showing fares. It displays numbers like "1→150 yen" or "2→200 yen". Find the number that matches your ticket to see how much you need to pay.
Step 3: Pay at the Fare Box and Exit
When the train stops at your station, put your numbered ticket plus the correct amount of cash into the fare box (運賃箱, unchinbako) next to the driver's seat. The fare box has a money changer that accepts 1,000 yen bills only.
Critical Things to Remember
Cash only: Credit cards and IC cards like Suica cannot be used on most trains
Have coins ready: Keep 500 yen coins and 100 yen coins with you
1,000 yen bills can be changed at the fare box
Higher bills (5,000 yen, 10,000 yen) cannot be changed
Station-by-Station Guide: South to North
Let's explore the main stations along JR Chuo Line from south (Nakatsugawa) to north (Shiojiri), in the order you'd travel through them.
Nakatsugawa Station (中津川駅) - Gateway to Magome
All Limited Express "Shinano" trains stop here
Staffed station
IC cards like Suica CAN be used
Access to: Magome-juku (馬籠宿) - 25 minutes by bus
Buses to Magome depart from bus stop #3 in front of the station, running approximately every hour. Magome is a beautiful post town with stone-paved sloping streets.
The hiking trail from Magome to Tsumago (8km, 2.5-3 hours) is the most popular section of the Nakasendo Trail.
[JR Nakatsugawa Station (Google Maps)](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Q9DyPQv81wNdFHEA8)
Travel time from:
Nagoya: 50 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
Kiso-Fukushima: 60 minutes by local train (40 minutes by limited express)
[link id=magome-juku]
[link id=magome-pass]
Nagiso Station (南木曽駅) - Nearest to Tsumago
Some limited express trains stop (but many don't)
Staffed station
IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
Access to: Tsumago-juku (妻籠宿) - 7 minutes by bus
Tsumago is one of Japan's best-preserved Edo-period post towns. Even power lines are buried underground, creating a true time-travel experience.
[JR Nagiso Station (Google Maps)](https://maps.app.goo.gl/iQpjm345fbhWUsxTA)
Travel time from:
Kiso-Fukushima: 25 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
Nakatsugawa: 20 minutes by local train
[link id=tsumago-juku]
Nojiri Station (野尻駅) - For Atera Valley
Unmanned station (no staff)
IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
No vending machines
Access to:Atera Valley (阿寺渓谷, Atera Keikoku) and Nojiri-juku (野尻宿)
Atera Valley
Famous for its "Atera Blue" emerald green water. Beautiful pools include Ushigatafuchi (牛ヶ淵), Inukaeri-no-fuchi (犬帰りの淵), and Kumagatafuchi (熊ヶ淵). A hidden gem that even many Japanese people don't know about.
[link id=atera-valley]
Nojiri-Juku
A quiet post town. Not touristy - you can experience an authentic post town with local life still visible.
[link id=nojiri-suhara-hiking]
[JR Nojiri Station (Google Maps)](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ShXXbxaDc6pQZfps9)
Travel time from:
Kiso-Fukushima: 30 minutes by local train
Nakatsugawa: 30 minutes by local train
Suhara Station (須原駅) - For Suhara Post Town
Unmanned station (no staff)
IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
Only one-man trains stop
Access to: Suhara-juku (須原宿) - 3 minutes walk
This small but beautiful post town features "mizubune" (水舟) - wooden water tanks - along the streets, still used by locals. You can glimpse local daily life here.
[JR Suhara Station](https://maps.app.goo.gl/5M7FnZTXKfLGTDt8A)
Travel time from:
Kiso-Fukushima: 20 minutes by local train
Nojiri: 10 minutes by local train
Agematsu Station (上松駅) - For Akasawa Forest
Limited Express "Shinano" stops here
Staffed station
IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
Access to: Akasawa Natural Recreation Forest (赤沢自然休養林) and Nezame-no-Toko (寝覚の床)
Akazawa Nature Recreation Forest
Approximately 30 minutes by bus.
Operating period: May-October only
Forest of 300-year-old Kiso cypress trees
Birthplace of forest bathing.
Buses run about 2 to 3 times a day.
[link id=akasawa-natural-forest]
Nezame-no-Toko
A scenic spot along Kiso River featuring massive rocks and rapids. Associated with the Urashima Taro legend.
[link id=nezameno-toko]
[JR Agematsu Station](https://maps.app.goo.gl/4MVHaxoEK4JW3hDT9)
Travel time from:
Kiso-Fukushima: 7 minutes by local train
Nagoya: 1 hour 30 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
Kiso-Fukushima Station (木曽福島駅) - Central Hub
All Limited Express "Shinano" trains stop
Staffed station but IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
Tourist information office, convenience stores, and restaurants near station
Best base for exploring Kiso Valley
[JR Kiso Fukushima Station](https://maps.app.goo.gl/H9n6DUmMbqe9Nzun6)
Travel time from:
Nagoya: 1 hour 20 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
Nagano: 1 hour 30 minutes by Limited Express Shinano
[link id=kiso-fukushima]
[link id=kisofukushima-hiking]
Yabuhara Station (薮原駅) - For Torii Pass Hiking
Unmanned station (no staff)
IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
Only one-man trains stop
Access to: Torii Pass Trail to Narai-juku
This 6km hiking trail (3-3.5 hours) crosses the highest point of the Nakasendo Trail at 1,197 meters elevation. You walk through pristine forest and descend into Narai-juku. Challenging but extremely rewarding.
[JR Yabuhara Station](https://maps.app.goo.gl/WmNUJ5fG3ucy57aG8)
Travel time from:
Kiso-Fukushima: 15 minutes by local train
Narai: 5 minutes by local train
Narai Station (奈良井駅) - Step Into Edo Period
Limited express trains do NOT stop (must use local trains)
Unmanned station (no staff)
IC cards like Suica CANNOT be used
The post town is just 1 minute walk from the station
Access to: Narai-juku (奈良井宿) - 1 minute walk
Called "Narai of a Thousand Houses" (奈良井千軒), this is the longest post town on the Nakasendo Trail. Edo-period buildings stretch for about 1km.
Travel time from:
Kiso-Fukushima: 20 minutes by local train
Shiojiri: 20 minutes by local train
Nagoya: About 1 hour 40 minutes (change trains at Kiso-Fukushima)
[link id=narai-juku]
Shiojiri Station (塩尻駅) - Northern Gateway
Limited Express "Azusa" and "Shinano" stop
Border station between JR East and JR West
Transfer point for Shinonoi Line
Shiojiri is the northern entrance to Kiso Valley. From here, you continue to Matsumoto and Nagano. If coming from Tokyo on the Azusa limited express, you change here to local trains for Narai and other post towns.
Practical Travel Tips for Kiso Valley Trains
Here are some tips for traveling the Nakasendo and Kiso Valley by train.
Make Kiso-Fukushima Your Base
If staying in Kiso Valley for 2-3 days, Kiso-Fukushima Station area is the most convenient base:
More accommodation options than other towns
You can reach both north and south destinations as day trips
Plan Around Infrequent Train Schedules
Local trains in Kiso Valley run only about once per hour.
Use Google Maps to check train times in advance
Take screenshots of your route
If you miss one train, you may wait over an hour for the next
The wait is part of the Kiso Valley experience. Use the time to walk around the station area, try a soba restaurant, or simply enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.
Most Stations Don't Accept IC Cards like Suica
When visiting Nakasendo post towns and traveling in Kiso Valley, most stations do NOT accept IC cards like Suica. Credit cards also cannot be used.
Therefore, be sure to bring cash. It is also recommended to purchase paper tickets in advance.
Use of JR Pass
The JR Pass allows unlimited rides on all regular trains and the limited express trains "Shinano" and "Azusa". However, it is not valid for buses (e.g., buses bound for Magome and Tsumago).
[link id=japan-rail-pass]
