A Trip to Tsumago-juku: A Step Back into Edo-Period Japan
12 February 2025
Tsumago-juku(妻籠宿) is a preserved post town from the Edo period (1600s to 1800s) located in Nagiso Town, Nagano Prefecture. It was part of the Nakasendo, one of the five major roads that connected Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period. Tsumago-juku was a place where travellers could rest and spend the night. This small town feels like a living museum where time has stood still. From its rustic wooden buildings to stone pathways, Tsumago-juku’s dedication to historical preservation and cultural authenticity makes it a unique destination for first-time visitors seeking an immersive journey into Japan’s past.
In this article, we will explain how to get to Tsumago-juku and what to see there.
Point
If you want to enjoy a traditional Japanese townscape, Tsumago-juku is the place to go!
It takes just under 4 hours to reach Tsumago-juku from Tokyo by JR train and bus.
To avoid crowds, it’s best to visit in the morning or evening on a weekday.
How to Access Tsumago-juku
You can reach Tsumago-juku by public transportation.
By Train: 4 hours from Tokyo
From Tokyo Station, it takes about 4 hours using a combination of train and bus. Total journey time is around 4 hours.
Step1：Take the Shinkansen to Nagoya
The fastest way from Tokyo to Nagoya is taking the Tokaido Shinkansen (A bullet train). There are three types of Shinkansen that run between Tokyo and Nagoya:
Nozomi - The fastest train. It takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach Nagoya.
Hikari - A bit slower than Nozomi. It takes about 1 hour and 40-50 minutes.
Kodama - The slowest train.
All trains stop at Nagoya station. However, If you use Nozomi trains by JR Pass, you need to purchase additional ticket. You can use the pass on Hikari and Kodama without extra cost.
Step2: Transfer to the JR Chuo Line to Nakatsugawa
At Nagoya Station, transfer to the JR Chuo Line (JR中央線) and take a train bound for Nakatsugawa Station(中津川駅). The train ride takes about 50–60 minutes.
Nakatsugawa is the gateway to the Nakasendo Trail（中山道）, a historic route connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Many travelers visit this area for hiking and exploring traditional post towns like Magome and Tsumago.
From Nagoya Station, transfer to the JR Chuo Line and get off at Nakatsugawa Station.
Step3: Take a local bus to Tsumago-juku
From Nakatsugawa Station(中津川駅), take a local bus to Tsumago-juku. The bus ride takes about 10 minutes. The fare from Nakatsugawa station to Tsumago-juku is 300 yen. Buses run on a limited schedule, so it's recommended to check the timetable in advance.
You can find detailed bus schedules on the official Tsumago-juku website: here
Highlights of Tsumago-juku
Tsumago-juku is best known for its beautifully preserved Edo-period townscape. The traditional wooden houses, with the stunning mountains in the background, make it a perfect spot for taking photos. Besides the houses, there are also watermills and other historical structures that give you a sense of what Japan was like in the past.
Here are some of the main attractions in Tsumago-juku:
Touring Time:
You can walk from one end of the town to the other in about 20 minutes, but if you want to take your time exploring the historical buildings, it’s best to plan for at least 2 hours.
Best Time to Visit:
Tsumago-juku can get crowded on weekends, so it’s better to visit on a weekday or early in the morning or late in the afternoon for a quieter experience. However, if you go too early, the shops may still be closed, as most open around 10 AM.
Popular Spots:
Kumagai Family Residence
This traditional house from the Edo period lets visitors explore the architecture and lifestyle of that time.
Koi Iwa (Carp Rock)
This large rock is said to resemble a carp. Due to damage from an earthquake in 1891, it no longer looks like a carp to most people, but it’s still an interesting sight.
Location: (Google Map link)
Kosatsuba (Notice Board)
The Kosatsuba was a place where official notices and laws were posted during the Edo period. The one at Tsumago-juku recreates the way information was shared with travelers and locals, giving you a glimpse into the Edo period's communication methods.
Location: (Google Map link)
Honjin
The Honjin was a special inn where high-ranking officials and feudal lords stayed during the Edo period. You can visit the inside of the Honjin to see its grand guest rooms and traditional furnishings. Visiting this spot gives you a sense of how important travel was in the Edo period and how special guests were treated.
Location: (Google Map link)
Wakihonjin Okuya
The Wakihonjin Okuya was the second most important accommodation after the Honjin. It was used by high-ranking travelers who weren’t lords or government officials. Now, it’s a museum where you can see what traveling was like back then. The building and garden are well-preserved and offer a great glimpse into Edo-period travel culture.
Admission Fees
Adults: 600 yen
Children: 300 yen
Combined ticket for Honjin: 700 yen
Location: (Google Map link)
Local Food and Specialties
Eating local food in Tsumago-juku is one of the highlights of the trip. Popular dishes include "Gohei-mochi," "soba," and "oyaki." All of these are traditional foods from Nagano Prefecture, where Tsumago-juku is located.
Gohei-mochi is a rice cake grilled with a sweet and savory miso sauce. It’s a simple but delicious dish, with a slightly sweet flavor that matches its chewy texture.
Soba (buckwheat noodles) is another popular dish in Nagano Prefecture. The soba noodles made with local buckwheat flour have a rich flavor and are definitely worth trying.
Lastly, oyaki is a dish made by wrapping vegetables like eggplant or nozawana greens in a flour-based dough and grilling it. Nozawana is a vegetable that has been loved by the people of Nagano for a long time.