"This water feels so soft!"
I said this the moment I dipped my feet into the free footbath in the square. My tired feet relaxed, and the warm onsen water seemed to soak into my body. I knew right away—I needed to experience this with my whole body!
Today, I'll guide you through Kiku no Yu, the historic public bathhouse in Yamanaka Onsen, Ishikawa Prefecture, so even first-time visitors can enjoy it with confidence.
By the way, even those with tattoos are allowed to bathe at this Kiku-no-yu!
Dive Into Japanese Onsen Culture at Kiku no Yu
Walk along Yuge Kaido, Yamanaka Onsen's main street, and you'll find the heart of the town: Kiku no Yu public bathhouse.
This isn't just a tourist bath—it's where locals gather daily, exchange greetings, and connect with their community. You can experience authentic Japanese local culture and tradition at this 1,300-year-old onsen. Let's dive in!
What Makes Yamanaka Onsen Water Special?
While Japan has many famous hot springs, Yamanaka Onsen's water is memorable because of its unique "dual nature." Let me explain what makes this onsen so special.
Smooth Yet Refreshing: A Dual Sensation
The most distinctive feature of Yamanaka Onsen is how it feels on your skin.
Smooth and Silky (Beauty Bath)
The water is mildly alkaline. Alkaline water gently dissolves old skin cells, making your skin feel smooth and soft during and after bathing.
Clean and Refreshing (Purifying Bath)
The main component is sulfate spring water, which washes away excess oil from your skin. Some people notice their skin feels tight and refreshed, or even slightly "squeaky clean."
This combination of smoothing and cleansing effects happening at the same time—that's what makes Yamanaka Onsen unique.
Long-Lasting Warmth
Yamanaka Onsen is called "warming water." Even though it looks clear and simple, after bathing you'll feel warm deep in your core. This powerful heating effect is the second characteristic.
The "Scent of the Waters" That Basho Loved
Physically, Yamanaka Onsen water is colorless, tasteless, and odorless. But the famous haiku poet Matsuo Basho captured its greatest quality in this verse:
"Yamanaka ya / kiku wa taoraji / yu no nioi"
(In Yamanaka / the chrysanthemum unpicked / the scent of hot springs)
Basho wasn't smelling sulfur or any physical scent. The "scent" he experienced was the life force in the water—the vitality that soaks into your body. The 1,300 years of history and culture create this "fragrance of longevity." That's the true magic of Yamanaka Onsen.
Two Separate Buildings: A Rare Design
One of Kiku no Yu's most unique features is that the men's and women's bathhouses are completely separate buildings. If you're visiting as a couple, you can share your different experiences afterward—double the fun!
Men's Bath (Otoko-Yu)
The building has a powerful, samurai-era design in the grand Tenpyo style. The highlight? A 1-meter-deep standing bath where you bathe while standing—an authentic old Japanese bathing style.
Women's Bath (Onna-yu)
Located next to the traditional theater Yamanaka-za, this bath offers spacious pools where you can stretch your legs. Beautiful Kutani-yaki ceramic tile art decorates the walls.
Try Making Onsen Eggs!
In front of the men's bath, you can make onsen eggs using the hot spring water. Buy eggs at the reception, place them in the hot water pool yourself, and about 40 minutes later, you'll have perfectly soft-boiled eggs. Eating your own onsen eggs after bathing creates the best memories!
How to Use Kiku no Yu: First-Timer's Guide
Don't worry if this is your first time at a Japanese public bathhouse. Here's the step-by-step process and etiquette.
Bathing Steps
Remove shoes: Take off your shoes at the entrance and place them in the shoe lockers
Buy ticket: Purchase your entry ticket from the vending machine
Give ticket at bandai: Hand your ticket to the staff at the "bandai" (reception desk) at the changing room entrance
Coin Lockers
The bath entrance has convenient coin lockers. Since onsen lockers are usually small, these larger lockers are very helpful.
Need a towel? Amenity Information
The most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to bring your own towel. Since this is a communal bathhouse, towels are not basically available for rent.
If you forget your own towel, don't worry, you can purchase an original towel or other towel at the guard stand. However, you should purchase them before taking off your clothes!
Japanese Onsen Etiquette
First time at a Japanese public bath? Just remember these simple rules:
Wash your body first at the washing stations before entering the bath
Don't put towels in the bath water
Enjoy quietly and relax
Yamanaka Onsen was voted the best hot spring in Eastern Japan!
Visit Yamanaka-za Theater
Next to Kiku no Yu, you'll find Yamanaka-za—a venue where you can watch traditional Yamanaka-bushi song and dance performances (scheduled shows). It also has a tourist information center and souvenir shops.
The gorgeous ceiling inside is a must-see. Truly beautiful! They also offer bicycle rentals, making this a great hub for exploring the area.
At this souvenir shop, you can buy raw eggs needed for making onsen eggs in front of the men's bath. Just buy the eggs, place them in the hot water, and after your bath, you'll have delicious soft-boiled onsen eggs. Try this fun experience!
For those wanting to maximize Yamanaka Onsen's skin benefits, try face masks made with the spring water. Use them after bathing to let your whole face absorb the high-quality minerals. Perfect as a gift or souvenir for yourself!
Essential Information: Kiku no Yu
Item | Details |
Hours of operation | 6:45 AM - 10:00 PM |
Closed | 2nd and 4th Tuesdays (or the following day if the Tuesday is a national holiday) |
Bathing fee | Adults 500 yen |
Access from Kaga Onsen Station | Approx. 30 minutes by bus from JR Kaga-Onsen Station, alight at "Kiku-no-yu-mae" bus stop. |
